Above the Clouds: The Great Akiki-Amba Traverse

November 22-26, 2012

Kabayan, Benguet

Personally, the journey began a month ago as I said yes to this hike. The idea of this infamous traverse pumped up my hiking enthusiasm. It had been lurking my mind since. Then, theactualjourney began when I hit the road to Baguio.

Day 1 – November 22, 2012

9PM

I’ve boarded a bus to Baguio from Cubao. The whole group all came from Pasay so I went on alone. The lone time though was great. Just the right peace and quiet before a huge battle ahead.

Day 2 – November 23, 2012

3AM

The weather in Baguio is a subtle hint of the temperature waiting for us in Pulag. As I wait for the whole team to arrive, I refused to wear anything more but my shirt to keep myself at ease with the cold.

4.30AM

The moment the team had been complete, we hit the road to higher Benguet.

5.30AM

Our first view of the daylight was our breakfast few kilometers before Ambuklao. Since I have really known myself to have the appetite during these kinds of trips, that pit stop is amazing – native chicken tinola equals 2 extra rice.

Hitting the road again, we decided to board onto the jeepney’s top load.  They say you never went to Pulag without this experience .True enough, the Benguet province is way more gorgeous, and colder at that, on top of a jeepney.

7.30AM

We arrived at the DENR Visitor Center in time for the 8AM orientation. The entire room was filled with hikers bound for Ambangeg trail, the easy trail. Nerves kick in as Ma’am Ems pointed out that we chose to take the Akiki trail, also known as the cardiac trail. But no, too late for us to change plans.

9AM

After securing our registration fee and guide, we hit the road again from Bokod to Brgy Eddet in Kabayan, where the Akiki ranger station is located.

10.30AM

That rough road itself is tiring. To quote myself as we arrived in the jump-off, para kaming duhat na inalog sa asin.

The jump-off signs are not friendly. Just realistic. Around 50’ assault greeted us as early as our way up the ranger station. This is the first time I got a hold of how heavy my pack is. i was like, in no way I can make it alive with this ton.

11AM

Arriving at the ranger station, we decided to take our early lunch. Now that’s a first. Hungry and tired even before hitting the real hike trail.

11.30AM

In 30 minutes start, we already had our first casualty. One of our team members early on accepted the fact that he can’t withstand how heavy his pack is. He had to negotiate it with our guide that instantly became his porter. I myself, confirmed it twice with our guide of the water source so I can unload my trail and camp waters. That’s 3 Liters off my pack.

12NN

The scorching sun is unexpected. That’s the least I anticipated in my first Cordillera hike. The scenic view of the range and pine trees helped me a lot but I just had a hard time garnering my hike groove. How can I highlight enough how heavy my pack is.

1.30PM

We reached Eddet River at an earlier time. But since we started off the hike way too late, this early we decided to improvise. We can’t make it to Marlboro Country by sun down so we have to cut the Eddet-Marlboro hike by half.

This lightened us up a bit. The pressure of reaching Marlboro Country campsite by 5PM is off our concerns already. It gave us an opportunity to appreciate the river and the beautiful trail more.

4PM

Given our slow pace, reaching the helipad or emergency camp from Eddet in 2hrs is an achievement. We pitched tents relaxed and prepared dinner with the twilight.

7PM

The socials was amazing. It’s nice to know that everyone’s still hyped – nervous but excited as to what tomorrow’s challenge awaits.

9PM

We braved our first Pulag night early.

Day 3 – November 24,2012

5AM

Wake up time. I was happy I survived the cold but nervous with the fact that the temperature will drop even lower as we reach higher altitude.

7AM

After breakfast, we resumed hiking the steep assaults of the infamous cardiac trail. 98% of the trail ranges from 30-70’ assaults. Indeed the killer trail is living up to its reputation.

8AM

Being so amazed with Mt. Tapulao, Marlboro Country for me is not much impressive with its view. One good thing about the campsite though is the latrinal area. Like my pack, I also need to unload. ;p

9.30AM

One of the most amazing thing about Pulag is its diversity. Finishing the Marlboro Country trail is our gateway to the Mossy Forest. It’s like entering an entire new mountain. Instantly, the scorching hot sun was replaced by much cozy wind and heavy shed of mossy trees. The grass and pine cones on the ground were replaced by fallen leaves, tree trunks and green carpets of moss. That’s just enchanted.

10.30AM

One thing that was not replaced though were the assaults. Although not as steep as what we had in Marlboro Country, it still is enough challenge especially when we arrived at the last water spring before our target campsite. That’s 2 more liters added to my pack.

11.30AM

I swear Pulag has this boarder line of changing terrains. Exiting the enchanted mossy forest brought us to one of the best things that ever happened in my life – the Pulag grass land.

My pack instantly became lighter and my groove was pumped up. Since we’re much early than our target time, I took time hiking the beautiful elevation. I savored every peak I climbed. I smile at every sides of my way.

12.30NN

Being the only group in the Saddle Camp that moment, it felt like we owned the mountain. We prepared lunch, pitched our tents and took some jump shots.

4.30PM

After a little nap, we pushed to the summit hoping for a good sunset view. Little did we know that we won’t be seeing a good sunset.

It is the best sunset of my life.

7PM

Hikers from Ambangeg trail flocked our Saddle Camp like anything. We prepared and had dinner with their noise in the background.

10PM

We now face the biggest challenge yet in Pulag: survive the cold night – the Philippines’ coldest can be.

Day 4 – November 25, 2012

4AM

I had been awake an hour before our call time since I feel like amputating my feet off my body due to the cold. Talk about cold feet, literally. With our layers and headlamps, we pushed for the summit for the sunrise.

Since the sunrise is a part of Ambangeg tour package, we kind’a expected a crowd in the summit. That’s fine since we owned the summit last night for the sunset.

5.30AM

There it is, the sun flare that changed my life.

8.30AM

After a very sumptuous breakfast, we waved goodbye to the Saddle Camp crowd and started our Ambangeg trail. Surviving Akiki, I was relaxed and smoothly sailed the trail. The pressure I gave myself was not for an impressive finish time of the hike but for draining the batteries of my camera.

9.30AM

Passing thru the grass land and dwarf bamboo trail, we finally reached Camp 2 where most of the Ambangeg hikers settled. It is also the marker of the mossy forest in this side of the mountain.

 

Since this part of Pulag is, I would say, a bit commercialized, the mossy forest had this paved feeling for me. The trail is wide, muddier and abused. The trees and plants were trimmed. It felt like I’m in a Japanese garden.

Add the fact that hikers and porters are everywhere in the trail, I’ve appreciated the tranquility of Akiki more.

11AM

With flat trail all the way, we only had one 5 minute break on our way down Pulag reaching the Ambangeg ranger station after 3 hrs.

Little did I know that I have yet to face another challenge: taking a bath with Benguet’s freezing cold water. It’s just so cold my body smokes every time it hits me. But with three days no bath, nothing can keep me from tearing off the dirt in my body.

1.30PM

We reached the DENR office in Bokod to log out. Well, they have to know we made it alive I guess.

3PM

We had our very late lunch somewhere south of Bokod and checked out the viewing deck of Ambuklao Lake and Dam.

5PM

The urbans of Baguio had never felt so humid and crowded. After securing our tickets back to Manila, we took a little city tour to the wagwagan and the market to buy some pasalubongs. We had a sumptuous and rewarding dinner at session road in time for our bus’ departure.

9PM

We left Baguio full and dead tired. I slept the entire travel to Manila without a single CR break.

Day 5 – November 26, 2012

3AM

I amazingly arrived in Manila with full of energy. I instantly did my laundry the moment I got home. Well, how can I not be, I just had the best sun flare in my life. I’ll be wearing my sunburn like a badge. Although a friend told me it made me look like a Japanese porn star.

**Facebook offers a better resolution of my pictures The Great Akiki-Amba Traverse

         Click here to view these pictures larger

_______________________________

Hey i'm on twitter - @rome_john